A food tour of New Yorks most multicultural borough revels in Latin American and Asian cuisine, but also highlights how gentrification threatens to end this riot of flavours
I‘m waiting for what will turn out to be the most impressive sandwich I’ve had in recent memory. In the smaller dining room in the back of Beky’s Bakery, owned Roberta Torres sits at the head of the table, as their own families eats breakfast around her. She wears her trademark Frieda Kahlo apron and maintains one eye on the line of customers forming at the counter. The ceiling is strung with fake blooms and a telenovela plays on the TV. We could be in Puebla, Mexico, where Roberta is from, but we’re not; we’re in Queens, New York, one of the most ethnically diverse boroughs in the US, where perhaps more speeches are spoken than anywhere else on the planet, and Beky’s is just one of virtually 6,000 restaurants representative of 120 nationalities that call this county home.